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As we watch the standing wave and the crowd of people standing with their boards, we wonder what it is all about. Wouldn't we rather be in the surf instead of the chilly river full of others standing and waiting? If we are not surfers it is a curious scene but to those that love to ride the wave it makes sense. What do surf legends like Gerry Lopez find so intriguing about this new phenomenon?
River Surfing Catching On With The Help Of Wave Legends Like Gerry Lopez
I carefully laid the blue surfboard on the chilly water’s surface, trying to find the sweet spot on this strange river wave.
My right thumb was still swollen and tender after being bent backwards the previous day on my first attempt at Bend, Oregon’s “Green Wave,” an injury caused as I gripped onto the board before I, along with it, was tossed like a battered rag doll into the raging rapids.
The encouraging words of advice surf icon Gerry Lopez said moments before my second-day attempt echoed in my mind.
“Be calm and smooth.”
I carefully laid the blue surfboard on the chilly water’s surface, trying to find the sweet spot on this strange river wave.
My right thumb was still swollen and tender after being bent backwards the previous day on my first attempt at Bend, Oregon’s “Green Wave,” an injury caused as I gripped onto the board before I, along with it, was tossed like a battered rag doll into the raging rapids.
The encouraging words of advice surf icon Gerry Lopez said moments before my second-day attempt echoed in my mind.
“Be calm and smooth.”
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